The Estate Pipe FAQ/Photo/Tricks of the Trade Thread

These stubborn stems still have some faint greenish oxidation near the shank after doing the Oxiclean, magic eraser, sandpaper, polish and Obsidian sequence. They were fairly oxidized beforehand. I actually the repeated the soak for overnight after the first 800 sanding on these. What do you think I'm doing wrong? Oxiclean soak not strong enough? I put a scoop in about 12 ounces of water and stirred it up. On a later batch, I used one scoop in about a liter of water in a long pan for a churchwarden stem (it cleaned up fine). Should I go to something coarser than the 800 sandpaper for the initial sanding?

http://i1377.photobucket.com/albums/...psfavt72ku.jpg

Here's a before picture of the bent bulldog (second from the left).

http://i1377.photobucket.com/albums/...psz9ryvbxw.jpg

I would say you need to go at them more with the micro finishing pads. Are you wet sanding when you use them? I keep a cup of water and a rag with me when I'm using them. Dip the stem in the water, go at it with the pad, wipe with the rag, and repeat until I feel it's time to move on to the next finest grit.

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Originally Posted by JustTroItIn

I would say you need to go at them more with the micro finishing pads. Are you wet sanding when you use them? I keep a cup of water and a rag with me when I'm using them. Dip the stem in the water, go at it with the pad, wipe with the rag, and repeat until I feel it's time to move on to the next finest grit.

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Yes, I am wet sanding them; I have a pan of water that I sand over and am dipping the stem and the sandpaper in the water often. I started with 800 grit and later did 1200 and then 1500. I spent a lot of time sanding, especially at the 800 grit level. What grit do you start with? Thanks

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Originally Posted by Haebar

Yes, I am wet sanding them; I have a pan of water that I sand over and am dipping the stem and the sandpaper in the water often. I started with 800 grit and later did 1200 and then 1500. I spent a lot of time sanding, especially at the 800 grit level. What grit do you start with? Thanks

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I actually start at 3200 and go up to 12000. If they are bad it can be a very time consuming process.

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Originally Posted by Branzig

They were designed to make a cool, gurgle free smoke. They're supposed to remove moisture, think of them as a condenser.

Some stingers will just not pass a pipe cleaner. If you can't pry it off with pliers, then I would just hack saw it off. If you don't like it that is.

The only pipe that I keep a stinger in is a collectable one. Removing the stinger in say a classic Kaywoodie destroys its value because the classic 4 hole drinkless system is one of the defining characteristics of those pipes.

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LOL, I've had two old pipes with stingers and both gurgled like an SOB, no matter how slow and smooth I smoked. I got so sick of one, I threw it in the fire, and the other, a brylon Kaywoodie, it's strictly for show at this point. Nice looking pipe, I wish it smoked well.

Maybe we need @Branzig in here. I have heard him mention Barkeepers friend but I have not used it myself.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Haebar

These stubborn stems still have some faint greenish oxidation near the shank after doing the Oxiclean, magic eraser, sandpaper, polish and Obsidian sequence. They were fairly oxidized beforehand. I actually the repeated the soak for overnight after the first 800 sanding on these. What do you think I'm doing wrong? Oxiclean soak not strong enough? I put a scoop in about 12 ounces of water and stirred it up. On a later batch, I used one scoop in about a liter of water in a long pan for a churchwarden stem (it cleaned up fine). Should I go to something coarser than the 800 sandpaper for the initial sanding?

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Don't put the Obsidian Oil on until you are 100% happy with how the stem looks. The Obsidian Oil retards oxidation and provides a protective barrier. So, in essence, when you apply the Obsidian Oil on top the oxidized stem, you are only helping trap the oxidation that is there.

I have used Bar Keeper's Friend with good use. One of the problems is the area that you are dealing with. Those are notoriously hard to remove oxidation from. I would pick up some Bar Keeper's Friend (gold can) and scrub the stems using that and see if you get anywhere using that. Another thing I have used in the past is a tooth brush and tooth paste. A tooth brush and tooth paste is easier to work near the end of the stem and by the button than finishing strips.

When all else fails, up the sand paper grit and hand work your way through it...takes forever but the end result is usually perfect.

Good Luck! Be sure to let us know how it all turns out!

Excellent thread with some great advice by people who are doing fine jobs of restoring their pipes.

Most Important before you start:
Examine the pipe and know exactly how you will restore it. Know what you can and can't do. What techniques are needed. Plan your work.

If the pipe has collectible value you need to use more care with the edges and nomenclature.

Get an inexpensive (ok - cheap, really cheap) pipe to test methods and techniques on.

Don’t chase teeth indents. If you sand to flush you may compromise the integrity of the material. Judge how deep the indents are and how much material you have before starting. If the button is chewed, how far can you reduce or reshape it and have it remain useful.

Keep the pipe together when working on the stem/shank area to prevent rounding. Use tape on the shank as needed but you don’t want to noticeably reduce the stem nor do you want to shave the shank. If you need to sand near the tenon, cover it with tape.

Magic erasers work well but they are mildly abrasive, more on stems than briar. Use accordingly.

Take the pipe apart when reaming to reduce the risk of tenon damage (and no soot in the stem). If you’re not experienced, try a blunt blade to ream because you don’t want to nick or damage the inside of the bowl. I use the Sheffield Pipe Knife pictured below.

http://thumbs3.ebaystatic.com/d/l225...bW1MWPSBAg.jpg


Materials and tools: options
@Branzig turned me onto micro-mesh pads and I also work with these (link):
http://www.amazon.com/Zona-37-948-Po...&keywords=zona


I use Bon Ami for the same purposes as Barkeeper's Friend. I just ordered 5 cans and one popped all over the rest of the order.

Retort: I use this instead of the salt bath.
Forces boiling alcohol through the stem, shank and into the bowl. Softens and dislodges old tars. Kits are available on eBay. Mine was $20 with proceeds going to Wounded Warrior’s but they are available for for less.
You’ll need cotton balls, brand name Q-Tips, a shank brush and a lot of pipe cleaners.
I retort my rotation about once a year.

Pipes & Cigars sells a good shank brush (link)
http://www.pipesandcigars.com/pipe-t...7/shank-brush/

Dollar Tree has a lot of items that are useful to a pipe restorer, (please don't ask how much they cost :) ), including:
Brushes for cleaning the crevices of rough finished pipes (I use brushes somewhat larger than a fingernail brush)
Tooth brushes and tooth paste.
Magic eraser (store brand)
Handi-Wipe cloths (store brand)
Masking tape

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Haebar

These stubborn stems still have some faint greenish oxidation near the shank after doing the Oxiclean, magic eraser, sandpaper, polish and Obsidian sequence. They were fairly oxidized beforehand. I actually the repeated the soak for overnight after the first 800 sanding on these. What do you think I'm doing wrong? Oxiclean soak not strong enough? I put a scoop in about 12 ounces of water and stirred it up. On a later batch, I used one scoop in about a liter of water in a long pan for a churchwarden stem (it cleaned up fine). Should I go to something coarser than the 800 sandpaper for the initial sanding?

Here's a before picture of the bent bulldog (second from the left).

http://i1377.photobucket.com/albums/...psz9ryvbxw.jpg

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Hi @Haebar,

If you have collectible pipes you’ll have to be more cautious in what you can do. Sometimes it’s better to leave something alone rather than to make it apparent that it was worked on. Refrain from buffing but if you do, cover the nomenclature with a mask (lke masking tape). You will read many places about using tripoli or other compounds (rottenstone, pumice, rouge, white diamond, etc.). Some of these are used on pipes BEFORE they’re stamped and finished but they’re not intended to be used afterwards. eBay is filled with pipes whose value was compromised by inappropriate buffing.

A light buff with carnauba is ok, but only to polish the restore but afterwards you should hand polish (not too hard) because even this can affect nomenclature. The crisper the lines and nomenclature the more value that you retain.

I just sold some Charatan pipes on eBay (pcs of one below) that I restored. Rather than do anything to the Cp stem logo (you had a question about this), I masked it and used micro-mesh pads (close) around it because any abrasive would have eliminated it.

https://photos-5.dropbox.com/t/2/AAC...?size=1024x768

You can barely see the Cp but that's how I received it. I used Dollar Tree brushes to clean the sandblast and rim.
https://photos-6.dropbox.com/t/2/AAA...?size=1024x768
The pipe was received so heavily caked that it's functional diameter was a like a 40 ring cigar and it had a lot of rim build-up. In this photo you can see the ghost of the stem oxidation near the saddle. It just wouldn't come off. The button was pretty well damaged as well with some moderate indents top and bottom but the smoke hole was in good shape.

I'm a little hesitant to describe this method so I'll start with a warning. If you use this method (below) use care because you can damage the stem easily and I have.

Fingernail files are sold that have many grits including ones that have several increasingly fine grits (a system) to buff nails. They're hard backed (usually with a stiff foam) and are very good for re-working stems but their finest grit is nowhere near polishing quality so you'll have to finish with micro-mesh or the papers I listed in my previous post. The fingernail files (foam backed - not metal or regular wood files) are rigid enough to allow you to keep the intrinsic lines of the stem. From your posts I suspect that this was a problem for you (too flexible).

Yes, these files can be as coarse as 150 grit (heed my warning) but I usually start about 240 to prevent creating lines that subsequent grits can't remove. If I were you I'd start at 400 and try it on a test stem until you're comfortable. The benefit of this method is that you are removing oxidized material rather than cleaning it, so it's more permanent and as you become adept you can reshape the stem as needed. I never shape stem barrel (as it approaches the shank) other than to get off the oxidation. Changing the barrel shape is a hornet's nest (yes, I've done that too).

ALWAYS work in the same direction, ALWAYS! Even if you feel that you're not getting any purchase, resist the urge to sand parallel. Always work with the most care near the mortise joint and at the button so that you don't remove too much material. A couple of heavy swipes and you have no button.

The coarser grits can take off a lot of material so go slowly. Do all sanding with one grit at the same time - stem, button and smoke hole. Then proceed to the next grit. Keep in mind my previous comments about not going even as far as flush with deep teeth indentations. Do what you can but no more.

I buy these files at Harmon's and for you better looking (than I), unattached guys you can meet some ladies this way but I only get funny looks while I fuss through the files available.

Hope this helps.

Pete

Quote:

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Originally Posted by NeverBend

Hi @Haebar,

If you have collectible pipes you’ll have to be more cautious in what you can do. Sometimes it’s better to leave something alone rather than to make it apparent that it was worked on. Refrain from buffing but if you do, cover the nomenclature with a mask (lke masking tape). You will read many places about using tripoli or other compounds (rottenstone, pumice, rouge, white diamond, etc.). Some of these are used on pipes BEFORE they’re stamped and finished but they’re not intended to be used afterwards. eBay is filled with pipes whose value was compromised by inappropriate buffing.

A light buff with carnauba is ok, but only to polish the restore but afterwards you should hand polish (not too hard) because even this can affect nomenclature. The crisper the lines and nomenclature the more value that you retain.

I just sold some Charatan pipes on eBay (pcs of one below) that I restored. Rather than do anything to the Cp stem logo (you had a question about this), I masked it and used micro-mesh pads (close) around it because any abrasive would have eliminated it.

https://photos-5.dropbox.com/t/2/AAC...?size=1024x768

You can barely see the Cp but that's how I received it. I used Dollar Tree brushes to clean the sandblast and rim.
https://photos-6.dropbox.com/t/2/AAA...?size=1024x768
The pipe was received so heavily caked that it's functional diameter was a like a 40 ring cigar and it had a lot of rim build-up. In this photo you can see the ghost of the stem oxidation near the saddle. It just wouldn't come off. The button was pretty well damaged as well with some moderate indents top and bottom but the smoke hole was in good shape.

I'm a little hesitant to describe this method so I'll start with a warning. If you use this method (below) use care because you can damage the stem easily and I have.

Fingernail files are sold that have many grits including ones that have several increasingly fine grits (a system) to buff nails. They're hard backed (usually with a stiff foam) and are very good for re-working stems but their finest grit is nowhere near polishing quality so you'll have to finish with micro-mesh or the papers I listed in my previous post. The fingernail files (foam backed - not metal or regular wood files) are rigid enough to allow you to keep the intrinsic lines of the stem. From your posts I suspect that this was a problem for you (too flexible).

Yes, these files can be as coarse as 150 grit (heed my warning) but I usually start about 240 to prevent creating lines that subsequent grits can't remove. If I were you I'd start at 400 and try it on a test stem until you're comfortable. The benefit of this method is that you are removing oxidized material rather than cleaning it, so it's more permanent and as you become adept you can reshape the stem as needed. I never shape stem barrel (as it approaches the shank) other than to get off the oxidation. Changing the barrel shape is a hornet's nest (yes, I've done that too).

ALWAYS work in the same direction, ALWAYS! Even if you feel that you're not getting any purchase, resist the urge to sand parallel. Always work with the most care near the mortise joint and at the button so that you don't remove too much material. A couple of heavy swipes and you have no button.

The coarser grits can take off a lot of material so go slowly. Do all sanding with one grit at the same time - stem, button and smoke hole. Then proceed to the next grit. Keep in mind my previous comments about not going even as far as flush with deep teeth indentations. Do what you can but no more.

I buy these files at Harmon's and for you better looking (than I), unattached guys you can meet some ladies this way but I only get funny looks while I fuss through the files available.

Hope this helps.

Pete

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Hi Pete - Thank you very much for taking the time to share your wisdom about this subject!