How do I get this carbon off the rim?

[NeverBend]

another vote for spit.... but you can also smoke a bowl, THEN spit and rub the carbon off... the heat will allow the carbon to release easier without marring the finish.

I've learned to live with a shadow on the rim but I do work the rim with a cloth while I'm smoking because, as Frankenstein suggests, it softens it up.

I don't buff if the pipe has any value because it smooths and rounds edges. I spit shine any wood portion of the pipe but gently around nomenclature. Work the spit shine off with a very soft cloth like the old handi-wipes.

Sounds like a nice pipe, enjoy!

[NeverBend]

My brother is giving me a low speed buffer this weekend; maybe I can knock it off with a buffer. My spit doesn't work on this.

Hi Haebar,

I'll write this as if you have no experience for anyone else who is considering using a buffing wheel with their pipes.

Finished pipes were never meant to see another buffing wheel after they're manufactured although many have. So only use applicants intended for last stage finishing and never a coarse wheel.

Information in Pipe Making forums should be good but aimed towards use with the product during its production, not after it was finished and their equipment may (should) be more commercial grade (such as the buffers mentioned below or larger).

Ideally you want low rpm (<~1800 rpm) with a larger wheel (8" or more) and 1" or more in thickness. Hobbyist buffers are generally higher speed with smaller wheels. To get an idea of good buffers for use with pipes see the Baldor 409 or the smaller Baldor 332 (I owned this). They are expensive and they are great and did I say that they're expensive?

Most hobbyist buffers are either grinders used to task or pad buffers (mop top). You'll need to be creative with your wheels and technique to make them effective and I think that you can get some tips on using them here on this forum.

Buy cotton wheels (except in rare cases) and it's important to know how to prepare your wheels. I assume that there's information about wheel prep online that you can look up. Dedicate one wheel to wax application and another to polishing. If you'ree just beginning, hold the pipe VERY well (the spinning wheel can rip it out of your hands) and use a soft touch. Take it slow.

All abrasive compounds will strip some wood and can reduce nomenclature quickly. Very fine abrasives should only be used with stems and with care on a wheel dedicated to that specific type of abrasive.

Good luck and show us the pipes when you're finished.

Pete

[Haebar]

Hi Haebar,

I'll write this as if you have no experience for anyone else who is considering using a buffing wheel with their pipes.

Finished pipes were never meant to see another buffing wheel after they're manufactured although many have. So only use applicants intended for last stage finishing and never a coarse wheel.

Information in Pipe Making forums should be good but aimed towards use with the product during its production, not after it was finished and their equipment may (should) be more commercial grade (such as the buffers mentioned below or larger).

Ideally you want low rpm (<~1800 rpm) with a larger wheel (8" or more) and 1" or more in thickness. Hobbyist buffers are generally higher speed with smaller wheels. To get an idea of good buffers for use with pipes see the Baldor 409 or the smaller Baldor 332 (I owned this). They are expensive and they are great and did I say that they're expensive?

Most hobbyist buffers are either grinders used to task or pad buffers (mop top). You'll need to be creative with your wheels and technique to make them effective and I think that you can get some tips on using them here on this forum.

Buy cotton wheels (except in rare cases) and it's important to know how to prepare your wheels. I assume that there's information about wheel prep online that you can look up. Dedicate one wheel to wax application and another to polishing. If you'ree just beginning, hold the pipe VERY well (the spinning wheel can rip it out of your hands) and use a soft touch. Take it slow.

All abrasive compounds will strip some wood and can reduce nomenclature quickly. Very fine abrasives should only be used with stems and with care on a wheel dedicated to that specific type of abrasive.

Good luck and show us the pipes when you're finished.

Pete

Hi Pete,

Thanks for the timely info; I appreciate it. My brother hasn't given me the buffer yet. It is a low speed, variable buffer motor. I hadn't planned on using it on my good pipes, only the ones that need refinishing. Even there I won't buff the nomenclature of a good name brand pipe. I have some pipes that I got in a lot from Ebay that are in poor shape, having lost all their finish (looks like they sat out in the sun or something).

[Haebar]

I've learned to live with a shadow on the rim but I do work the rim with a cloth while I'm smoking because, as Frankenstein suggests, it softens it up.

I don't buff if the pipe has any value because it smooths and rounds edges. I spit shine any wood portion of the pipe but gently around nomenclature. Work the spit shine off with a very soft cloth like the old handi-wipes.

Sounds like a nice pipe, enjoy!

Thanks for your input; in light of what you and others have said, I won't take that pipe to the buffer. It's too nice to chance ruining it by rounding the edges of the rim.