The Estate Pipe FAQ/Photo/Tricks of the Trade Thread

One of the most enjoyable parts of our hobby (in my opinion) is finding, refurbishing, and savoring an estate pipe. This thread is for any questions, experience, photos, or tricks you have to share regarding the art, science, and experimentation surrounding estate pipes. I'll kick it off with an abbreviated step by step that offers a generic outline of my process:

1. The first step for me is cleaning out the stem. I do this with isopropyl alcohol and a combination of bristle and regular pipe cleaners. I used to prefer Everclear or Bacardi 151 but when I quit imbibing I no longer had a reasonable way to use up the remainder of the bottle :) The point is to use something that will evaporate quickly after it cleans and sanitizes.
http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/r...b/DSC03955.jpg

2. I then ream the bowls. I typically do this with a combination of a reamer and a pen knife- the latter being my preference. I like to take mine down to only the slightest layer of cake (1/16")- or just above bare briar. I then wipe the bowls out with a bit of alcohol and paper towels:
http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/r.../SSPX00921.jpg

3. Next is the salt treatment. I fold over a pip cleaner and tuck it into the shank of the pipe before filling the bowl with kosher salt. I then take my alcohol of choice and soak the salt using an eyedropper. The eyedropper prevents getting the alcohol on the outside of the bowl where it can damage the finish. A trick I've learned is to sit the bowls in a plate of rice in order to keep them supported and upright. Afterwards, when it has leaked out tar and booze, cook it and feed it to someone you don't like ;)
http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/r.../SSPX00901.jpg

4. I now return to the stems that I scrub with a micro-abrasion polishing pad, followed by a magic eraser (sometimes toothpaste with baking soda can work nicely as well):
http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/r...b/DSC03954.jpg

continued in next post...

5. I return to the bowls. After the salt has leeched out all the nasty goodness (this may take 2-3 treatments of 2 hours a piece), I dump out the salt, remove the pipe cleaner, and wipe the inside with a paper towel. I then sit the bowls in an egg carton to dry for a day:
http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/r.../SSPX00911.jpg

6. I like to polish using beeswax and a dremel tool with a buffing head (along with a polishing rag and some elbow grease):
http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/r.../SSPX00931.jpg

7. Final product, ready to be paired up and enjoyed:
http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/r.../SSPX00951.jpg

http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/r...b/DSC03956.jpg

Great post Tobias. Thanks a lot.

I picked up my first two yesterday while the wife and I were out hitting up some antique stores.

I got one that says Willard Imported Briar on the side. It is a straight pipe.
The other one is a straight pipe as well and looks similar to the Willard but has no markings at all.
I have no idea what they're worth but I only paid $25 for the pair so I think I'll be fine.

I wish I would have taken pics, but they're soaking in the salt/alcohol treatment now. I cleaned up the stems last night as well.

Looking forward to doing this more. Planning on doing some yard sale-ing when the weather warms up and I'll be on the lookout.

I have posted this elsewhere but since this looks like it will be a dedicated "How To" thread on cleaning up estates I think it's worth the repeat here. Due to the image restrictions I'm going to have to bust this up into several posts.
-----------------------------
I have seen a few threads on how to clean up an estate briar but only a few on cleaning up a meer. I have cleaned up two meers now and this post shows the steps I went through to clean up my second. Some of the information here was borrowed (see stole) from other sources online, and some of it I came up with myself after running into road blocks.
I'll start off by posting before and after pictures of the first meer I cleaned. It's a smooth billard with an acrylic stem and I really don't know whether it is block or pressed meerschaum, but after this second pipe I'm going to guess at pressed (more on that later).

Before:
http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...ps6fb6e04b.jpg
After:
http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...ps71b44a2b.jpg

The second Meerschaum in question I picked up a few weeks ago in a local antique store for $20. This is what it looked like when I got it.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...ps6cc1067c.jpg

I am not sure if the stem on this pipe is bake lite or amber.

As you can see from the picture, the previous owner was not all that concerned about cake building up in his meer (very similar to the first). I brought out my senior style reamer and commenced (very carefully) to ream it out as much as I could. I have found you can only ream so much cake from a meer before other avenues are required. This is when I break out the sand paper (starting with 220 grit) and wrap it around the reamer. A loose fit works just fine as long as the sand paper will actually turn in the bowl.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...psb106af83.jpg

Keep an eye on the dust you dump out of the bowl. You don't want to remove actual Meerschaum, just cake.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...ps3156c936.jpg

When the reamer stopped producing results, but I still had a noticable amount a cake in the bowl, I grabbed a deep socket that would fit in the bowl and wrapped a bit of electrical tape around it. I then wrapped the sand paper around that and kept at it.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...ps26c4b95e.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...psb4198adb.jpg

Once this stopped producing desired results I switched to wrapping a bit of sand paper around my finger...and I kept at it.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...ps26c39bff.jpg

The last thing I use is 000 then 0000 grade steal wool and twist it in the bowl to smooth everything out. I forget to get a pic of this process but this is the piece of steal wool I used.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...psa5f50b99.jpg

I will also take a piece of steal wool, unravel it flat, and run the top of the bowl over it on a flat surface a few times to smooth out any scratches.

Here is where I decided enough was enough.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...ps8d861420.jpg

For the most part, I cleaned the stem like I would any other. Scrubbed with pipe cleaners and alcohol until it came out pretty clean. Soaked in Oxyclean and water for 24 hours and then went at it with an Arm and Hammer Magic Eraser to remove any crud. With vulcanite I may have continued with micro finishing cloth abrasive pads but did not feel it was necessary with this stem.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...ps52479b49.jpg

Here is where we are up to this point.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...pscb9575f0.jpg

Waxing is where I started to get into unknown territory and may have mucked it all up. I have watched people melt bees wax, cork bowls, and place some type of stopper in the shank, then put the pipe in there and just stir it around. I wasn't going to do all that.

I saw a youtube of a guy that melted beeswax on a paper towel, smoked his pipe, held the pipe in the towel, and just rubbed it now and then. I did this with the smooth billard and it worked great, giving it a nice shine. On this pipe, the results were quite different.

First, instead of a paper towel I used a micro fibre cloth purchased at Harbor Freight.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...ps04b85b13.jpg

I packed my pipe with some Three Nuns and fired her up.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...psb345ba93.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...ps1458e87f.jpg

I was amazed at how much wax this pipe sucked up and how it immediately started to color. This is what I think a lot of people refer to as false coloring a meer. I'm really not sure whether it would have been better to not use wax at all but here is what the pipe looked like after just one smoke.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...psbb59a227.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...ps9b556cc2.jpg

I'm starting to suspect that the first pipe was pressed meer, hence why it didn't suck up as much wax, and that this one was block.
This pipe has had two bowls through it now and I'm happy to say it's a good smoker. I hope y'all enjoyed seeing the process and as I learn more I'll share.

Kind of interesting. The closing pics were taken while the bowl was still hot. It has since cooled and much of the color has disappeared.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...psa9fb9764.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...ps3bb40149.jpg

You guys just saved me a ton of work ;)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Branzig

You guys just saved me a ton of work ;)

---

Most of what I learned was from your original thread, Brandon.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by JustTroItIn

Most of what I learned was from your original thread, Brandon.

---

Glad I was able to help so much!

That was the reason I made the thread to begin with to get more people into restoring estates!

I just got some older unsmoked pipes which have the CP for Charatan in the stem. The vulcanite stems are significantly oxidized. How do I clean these stems up without messing up the symbol?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Haebar

I just got some older unsmoked pipes which have the CP for Charatan in the stem. The vulcanite stems are significantly oxidized. How do I clean these stems up without messing up the symbol?

---

While I have not tried it myself, I have read that putting Vaseline on the symbols prior to the Oxyclean treatment will do the trick. Hopefully a veteran estate restorer can jump in and validate or call shenanigans.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Haebar

I just got some older unsmoked pipes which have the CP for Charatan in the stem. The vulcanite stems are significantly oxidized. How do I clean these stems up without messing up the symbol?

---

i have used Vaseline or a petroleum jelly product on my last two soaks in oxy clean. they where a dr. grabow and a medico with the little logos and hod no issues

Thanks fellows! I will try the vaseline on them.

OK guys. Need a little help here. This is my first time trying to bring back an old estate pipe and I'm running into an issue.
This is a Willard, and isn't a bad looking little pipe. I think for $10 at a flea market I did okay. That is assuming I can fix this issue.

This is what the pipe looks like (not that that is an important fact).
http://i902.photobucket.com/albums/a...pspya5q7gm.jpg

And the stem (where the problem is):
http://i902.photobucket.com/albums/a...psadz9h66f.jpg

The problem is that the draw is terrible, even with an empty pipe. You can remove the stem and just try to draw through the stem and it is the resistance of a thick milkshake. I've ran several vodka soaked pipe cleaners through it and nothing seems to work. Do I need to get a needle and dig around in the metal end there? (I know that sounds stupid but I don't know what the metal thing is called. lol) I haven't done anything yet because I don't want to eff it up worse than it already is.

Help a rookie out guys.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Cool Breeze

The problem is that the draw is terrible, even with an empty pipe. You can remove the stem and just try to draw through the stem and it is the resistance of a thick milkshake. I've ran several vodka soaked pipe cleaners through it and nothing seems to work. Do I need to get a needle and dig around in the metal end there? (I know that sounds stupid but I don't know what the metal thing is called. lol) I haven't done anything yet because I don't want to eff it up worse than it already is.

Help a rookie out guys.

---

The metal thing is called stinger :D

So are you able to pass the pipe cleaner through the stinger? As in, does the pipe cleaner come out from one end to the other? If so, then digging in there wouldn't help much. It is already clear most likely. If the pipe cleaner won't pass, then I would soak the stem in Oxi-clean and see if that breaks up whatever is blocking it.

If that doesn't work, remove the sucker. Some just pry off with a pair of pliers. Others, you have to hack saw off....being very careful not to cut off too much thread! Otherwise the pipe won't screw back in...don't worry, it sounds more scary than it is.

Hope that helps!

FYI to anyone who is interested...

I am working on posting my old "How I Restore An Estate Pipe Thread" :D

Much thanks to @Emperor Zurg .... without him reposting it would of been close to impossible....hopefully I will have it up in the next few days!

No, the pipe cleaner does not pass all the way through the stinger.

What good is that thing anyway?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Cool Breeze

No, the pipe cleaner does not pass all the way through the stinger.

What good is that thing anyway?

---

They were designed to make a cool, gurgle free smoke. They're supposed to remove moisture, think of them as a condenser.

Some stingers will just not pass a pipe cleaner. If you can't pry it off with pliers, then I would just hack saw it off. If you don't like it that is.

The only pipe that I keep a stinger in is a collectable one. Removing the stinger in say a classic Kaywoodie destroys its value because the classic 4 hole drinkless system is one of the defining characteristics of those pipes.

It looks to me like that stinger is still dirty and crudded up. I have a Kaywoodie that took a lot of work to get the nasty stinger clear but just working at it with alcohol, pipe cleaners, and a tooth brush did get it clean.

I have a 100 yr old Meer from Turkey that has a stinger,yes I've the box and original shipping invoice too.Thanks for the advice on cleaning,I'm hoping it will improve the draw.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Lostmason

I have a 100 yr old Meer from Turkey that has a stinger,yes I've the box and original shipping invoice too.Thanks for the advice on cleaning,I'm hoping it will improve the draw.

---

Pics please! We love pics!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by JustTroItIn

Pics please! We love pics!

---

Attachment 871
Attachment 872
Attachment 873
Attachment 874
I mis-spoke,I don't seem to have the invoice,but I do have the other papers that come with it.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Lostmason

Attachment 871
Attachment 872
Attachment 873
Attachment 874
I mis-spoke,I don't seem to have the invoice,but I do have the other papers that come with it.

---

Great looking pipe. It's in fantastic shape.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by JustTroItIn

Great looking pipe. It's in fantastic shape.

---

If it wasn't for the stinger it would smoke great also,I've a cpl old briars that I smoke for everyday use.
Just got through looking up aYellow-bole Imperial Algerian Bruyere that I have and need to restore,there is one listed on ebay for $75.
It's 10.75 in long with a 1 in dia bowl.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Lostmason

Attachment 871
Attachment 872
Attachment 873
Attachment 874
I mis-spoke,I don't seem to have the invoice,but I do have the other papers that come with it.

---

Great Looking Pipe!

If you don't like the stinger, cut that sucker off! :D

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Branzig

Great Looking Pipe!

If you don't like the stinger, cut that sucker off! :D

---

Plz excuse me for this ,,,WHAT????,,,,really I wouldn't dream of altering it,I can deal with the stinger ,it twists in Btw,I couldn't deal with lessening its value.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Lostmason

Plz excuse me for this ,,,WHAT????,,,,really I wouldn't dream of altering it,I can deal with the stinger ,it twists in Btw,I couldn't deal with lessening its value.

---

All pipes I keep, I smoke. If the stinger is bugging me, out comes the hack saw haha.

Now if I buy a pipe to restore and sell, then I'll keep things intact. But yeah, if it's staying in my personal collection/arsenal of pipes and the stingers buggin, off it goes.

No problem brudda,,I just keep the stinger clean and it smokes fine.Just have to do the maintence.The only real problem I have with that one is my packing tech and you guys have given me Great instruction on that.I don't have enough pipes to start selling or trading so all of mine are in use to some extant or another.I pull out the Meer to piss of my son,since he got my Rossi stolen.He borrowed it and took it to work and someone wanted it more than he did.

These stubborn stems still have some faint greenish oxidation near the shank after doing the Oxiclean, magic eraser, sandpaper, polish and Obsidian sequence. They were fairly oxidized beforehand. I actually the repeated the soak for overnight after the first 800 sanding on these. What do you think I'm doing wrong? Oxiclean soak not strong enough? I put a scoop in about 12 ounces of water and stirred it up. On a later batch, I used one scoop in about a liter of water in a long pan for a churchwarden stem (it cleaned up fine). Should I go to something coarser than the 800 sandpaper for the initial sanding?

http://i1377.photobucket.com/albums/...psfavt72ku.jpg

Here's a before picture of the bent bulldog (second from the left).

http://i1377.photobucket.com/albums/...psz9ryvbxw.jpg

I would say you need to go at them more with the micro finishing pads. Are you wet sanding when you use them? I keep a cup of water and a rag with me when I'm using them. Dip the stem in the water, go at it with the pad, wipe with the rag, and repeat until I feel it's time to move on to the next finest grit.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by JustTroItIn

I would say you need to go at them more with the micro finishing pads. Are you wet sanding when you use them? I keep a cup of water and a rag with me when I'm using them. Dip the stem in the water, go at it with the pad, wipe with the rag, and repeat until I feel it's time to move on to the next finest grit.

---

Yes, I am wet sanding them; I have a pan of water that I sand over and am dipping the stem and the sandpaper in the water often. I started with 800 grit and later did 1200 and then 1500. I spent a lot of time sanding, especially at the 800 grit level. What grit do you start with? Thanks

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Haebar

Yes, I am wet sanding them; I have a pan of water that I sand over and am dipping the stem and the sandpaper in the water often. I started with 800 grit and later did 1200 and then 1500. I spent a lot of time sanding, especially at the 800 grit level. What grit do you start with? Thanks

---

I actually start at 3200 and go up to 12000. If they are bad it can be a very time consuming process.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Branzig

They were designed to make a cool, gurgle free smoke. They're supposed to remove moisture, think of them as a condenser.

Some stingers will just not pass a pipe cleaner. If you can't pry it off with pliers, then I would just hack saw it off. If you don't like it that is.

The only pipe that I keep a stinger in is a collectable one. Removing the stinger in say a classic Kaywoodie destroys its value because the classic 4 hole drinkless system is one of the defining characteristics of those pipes.

---

LOL, I've had two old pipes with stingers and both gurgled like an SOB, no matter how slow and smooth I smoked. I got so sick of one, I threw it in the fire, and the other, a brylon Kaywoodie, it's strictly for show at this point. Nice looking pipe, I wish it smoked well.

Maybe we need @Branzig in here. I have heard him mention Barkeepers friend but I have not used it myself.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Haebar

These stubborn stems still have some faint greenish oxidation near the shank after doing the Oxiclean, magic eraser, sandpaper, polish and Obsidian sequence. They were fairly oxidized beforehand. I actually the repeated the soak for overnight after the first 800 sanding on these. What do you think I'm doing wrong? Oxiclean soak not strong enough? I put a scoop in about 12 ounces of water and stirred it up. On a later batch, I used one scoop in about a liter of water in a long pan for a churchwarden stem (it cleaned up fine). Should I go to something coarser than the 800 sandpaper for the initial sanding?

---

Don't put the Obsidian Oil on until you are 100% happy with how the stem looks. The Obsidian Oil retards oxidation and provides a protective barrier. So, in essence, when you apply the Obsidian Oil on top the oxidized stem, you are only helping trap the oxidation that is there.

I have used Bar Keeper's Friend with good use. One of the problems is the area that you are dealing with. Those are notoriously hard to remove oxidation from. I would pick up some Bar Keeper's Friend (gold can) and scrub the stems using that and see if you get anywhere using that. Another thing I have used in the past is a tooth brush and tooth paste. A tooth brush and tooth paste is easier to work near the end of the stem and by the button than finishing strips.

When all else fails, up the sand paper grit and hand work your way through it...takes forever but the end result is usually perfect.

Good Luck! Be sure to let us know how it all turns out!

Excellent thread with some great advice by people who are doing fine jobs of restoring their pipes.

Most Important before you start:
Examine the pipe and know exactly how you will restore it. Know what you can and can't do. What techniques are needed. Plan your work.

If the pipe has collectible value you need to use more care with the edges and nomenclature.

Get an inexpensive (ok - cheap, really cheap) pipe to test methods and techniques on.

Don’t chase teeth indents. If you sand to flush you may compromise the integrity of the material. Judge how deep the indents are and how much material you have before starting. If the button is chewed, how far can you reduce or reshape it and have it remain useful.

Keep the pipe together when working on the stem/shank area to prevent rounding. Use tape on the shank as needed but you don’t want to noticeably reduce the stem nor do you want to shave the shank. If you need to sand near the tenon, cover it with tape.

Magic erasers work well but they are mildly abrasive, more on stems than briar. Use accordingly.

Take the pipe apart when reaming to reduce the risk of tenon damage (and no soot in the stem). If you’re not experienced, try a blunt blade to ream because you don’t want to nick or damage the inside of the bowl. I use the Sheffield Pipe Knife pictured below.

http://thumbs3.ebaystatic.com/d/l225...bW1MWPSBAg.jpg


Materials and tools: options
@Branzig turned me onto micro-mesh pads and I also work with these (link):
http://www.amazon.com/Zona-37-948-Po...&keywords=zona


I use Bon Ami for the same purposes as Barkeeper's Friend. I just ordered 5 cans and one popped all over the rest of the order.

Retort: I use this instead of the salt bath.
Forces boiling alcohol through the stem, shank and into the bowl. Softens and dislodges old tars. Kits are available on eBay. Mine was $20 with proceeds going to Wounded Warrior’s but they are available for for less.
You’ll need cotton balls, brand name Q-Tips, a shank brush and a lot of pipe cleaners.
I retort my rotation about once a year.

Pipes & Cigars sells a good shank brush (link)
http://www.pipesandcigars.com/pipe-t...7/shank-brush/

Dollar Tree has a lot of items that are useful to a pipe restorer, (please don't ask how much they cost :) ), including:
Brushes for cleaning the crevices of rough finished pipes (I use brushes somewhat larger than a fingernail brush)
Tooth brushes and tooth paste.
Magic eraser (store brand)
Handi-Wipe cloths (store brand)
Masking tape

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Haebar

These stubborn stems still have some faint greenish oxidation near the shank after doing the Oxiclean, magic eraser, sandpaper, polish and Obsidian sequence. They were fairly oxidized beforehand. I actually the repeated the soak for overnight after the first 800 sanding on these. What do you think I'm doing wrong? Oxiclean soak not strong enough? I put a scoop in about 12 ounces of water and stirred it up. On a later batch, I used one scoop in about a liter of water in a long pan for a churchwarden stem (it cleaned up fine). Should I go to something coarser than the 800 sandpaper for the initial sanding?

Here's a before picture of the bent bulldog (second from the left).

http://i1377.photobucket.com/albums/...psz9ryvbxw.jpg

---

Hi @Haebar,

If you have collectible pipes you’ll have to be more cautious in what you can do. Sometimes it’s better to leave something alone rather than to make it apparent that it was worked on. Refrain from buffing but if you do, cover the nomenclature with a mask (lke masking tape). You will read many places about using tripoli or other compounds (rottenstone, pumice, rouge, white diamond, etc.). Some of these are used on pipes BEFORE they’re stamped and finished but they’re not intended to be used afterwards. eBay is filled with pipes whose value was compromised by inappropriate buffing.

A light buff with carnauba is ok, but only to polish the restore but afterwards you should hand polish (not too hard) because even this can affect nomenclature. The crisper the lines and nomenclature the more value that you retain.

I just sold some Charatan pipes on eBay (pcs of one below) that I restored. Rather than do anything to the Cp stem logo (you had a question about this), I masked it and used micro-mesh pads (close) around it because any abrasive would have eliminated it.

https://photos-5.dropbox.com/t/2/AAC...?size=1024x768

You can barely see the Cp but that's how I received it. I used Dollar Tree brushes to clean the sandblast and rim.
https://photos-6.dropbox.com/t/2/AAA...?size=1024x768
The pipe was received so heavily caked that it's functional diameter was a like a 40 ring cigar and it had a lot of rim build-up. In this photo you can see the ghost of the stem oxidation near the saddle. It just wouldn't come off. The button was pretty well damaged as well with some moderate indents top and bottom but the smoke hole was in good shape.

I'm a little hesitant to describe this method so I'll start with a warning. If you use this method (below) use care because you can damage the stem easily and I have.

Fingernail files are sold that have many grits including ones that have several increasingly fine grits (a system) to buff nails. They're hard backed (usually with a stiff foam) and are very good for re-working stems but their finest grit is nowhere near polishing quality so you'll have to finish with micro-mesh or the papers I listed in my previous post. The fingernail files (foam backed - not metal or regular wood files) are rigid enough to allow you to keep the intrinsic lines of the stem. From your posts I suspect that this was a problem for you (too flexible).

Yes, these files can be as coarse as 150 grit (heed my warning) but I usually start about 240 to prevent creating lines that subsequent grits can't remove. If I were you I'd start at 400 and try it on a test stem until you're comfortable. The benefit of this method is that you are removing oxidized material rather than cleaning it, so it's more permanent and as you become adept you can reshape the stem as needed. I never shape stem barrel (as it approaches the shank) other than to get off the oxidation. Changing the barrel shape is a hornet's nest (yes, I've done that too).

ALWAYS work in the same direction, ALWAYS! Even if you feel that you're not getting any purchase, resist the urge to sand parallel. Always work with the most care near the mortise joint and at the button so that you don't remove too much material. A couple of heavy swipes and you have no button.

The coarser grits can take off a lot of material so go slowly. Do all sanding with one grit at the same time - stem, button and smoke hole. Then proceed to the next grit. Keep in mind my previous comments about not going even as far as flush with deep teeth indentations. Do what you can but no more.

I buy these files at Harmon's and for you better looking (than I), unattached guys you can meet some ladies this way but I only get funny looks while I fuss through the files available.

Hope this helps.

Pete

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by NeverBend

Hi @Haebar,

If you have collectible pipes you’ll have to be more cautious in what you can do. Sometimes it’s better to leave something alone rather than to make it apparent that it was worked on. Refrain from buffing but if you do, cover the nomenclature with a mask (lke masking tape). You will read many places about using tripoli or other compounds (rottenstone, pumice, rouge, white diamond, etc.). Some of these are used on pipes BEFORE they’re stamped and finished but they’re not intended to be used afterwards. eBay is filled with pipes whose value was compromised by inappropriate buffing.

A light buff with carnauba is ok, but only to polish the restore but afterwards you should hand polish (not too hard) because even this can affect nomenclature. The crisper the lines and nomenclature the more value that you retain.

I just sold some Charatan pipes on eBay (pcs of one below) that I restored. Rather than do anything to the Cp stem logo (you had a question about this), I masked it and used micro-mesh pads (close) around it because any abrasive would have eliminated it.

https://photos-5.dropbox.com/t/2/AAC...?size=1024x768

You can barely see the Cp but that's how I received it. I used Dollar Tree brushes to clean the sandblast and rim.
https://photos-6.dropbox.com/t/2/AAA...?size=1024x768
The pipe was received so heavily caked that it's functional diameter was a like a 40 ring cigar and it had a lot of rim build-up. In this photo you can see the ghost of the stem oxidation near the saddle. It just wouldn't come off. The button was pretty well damaged as well with some moderate indents top and bottom but the smoke hole was in good shape.

I'm a little hesitant to describe this method so I'll start with a warning. If you use this method (below) use care because you can damage the stem easily and I have.

Fingernail files are sold that have many grits including ones that have several increasingly fine grits (a system) to buff nails. They're hard backed (usually with a stiff foam) and are very good for re-working stems but their finest grit is nowhere near polishing quality so you'll have to finish with micro-mesh or the papers I listed in my previous post. The fingernail files (foam backed - not metal or regular wood files) are rigid enough to allow you to keep the intrinsic lines of the stem. From your posts I suspect that this was a problem for you (too flexible).

Yes, these files can be as coarse as 150 grit (heed my warning) but I usually start about 240 to prevent creating lines that subsequent grits can't remove. If I were you I'd start at 400 and try it on a test stem until you're comfortable. The benefit of this method is that you are removing oxidized material rather than cleaning it, so it's more permanent and as you become adept you can reshape the stem as needed. I never shape stem barrel (as it approaches the shank) other than to get off the oxidation. Changing the barrel shape is a hornet's nest (yes, I've done that too).

ALWAYS work in the same direction, ALWAYS! Even if you feel that you're not getting any purchase, resist the urge to sand parallel. Always work with the most care near the mortise joint and at the button so that you don't remove too much material. A couple of heavy swipes and you have no button.

The coarser grits can take off a lot of material so go slowly. Do all sanding with one grit at the same time - stem, button and smoke hole. Then proceed to the next grit. Keep in mind my previous comments about not going even as far as flush with deep teeth indentations. Do what you can but no more.

I buy these files at Harmon's and for you better looking (than I), unattached guys you can meet some ladies this way but I only get funny looks while I fuss through the files available.

Hope this helps.

Pete

---

Hi Pete - Thank you very much for taking the time to share your wisdom about this subject!